The journey was extraordinary although every day we had to travelled long distances. We passed through hostile but fascinating landscapes. The parks are worth it to explore, not touristy yet, for our own good!
We had a rough time at 4000 m, we experience it in a comfortable way. We did not camp or hike. It was exhausting. What we saw, observed, eased the pain. During that week even taking pictures became a challenge due to a lack of concentration and focus. We took up this challenge among others such as no petrol stations, accommodations in specific villages, no ATMs, and no food supplies. The best was not to be able to receive internet signal! The desert was barren brown, almost empty of life. The few animals that can survive there camouflages themselves. We spotted them and tried not to disturb them. We were stepping in their environment. The inhospitable environment makes any kind of human life tough. Poeple tend to escape and live now a more peaceful life at a lower altitude. We survived the torrid head and the cutting wind at some time. Our eyes sparkled with stars, it was just the beginning!
0 Comments
AZAPA VALLEY - CHUNGARA - PARINACOTA GUALLATIRI -ISLUGA PULCHUDIZA - MOLINOS - THE ATACAMA GIANT HUMBERSTONE - PICA - MANILLA PISAGUA - CAMARONES ANZOTA CAVES - SEA LIONS
ARICA We were back there in Arica! We arrived one day ahead of our schedule. We could benefit from the car to visit places in Arica. The caves were one option and the beach a second one. We´ve never rented a car as such, if I can recall once in Mallorca for a couple of days. It is so handy! We get used to luxury (for us) very quickly! We were already nostalgic and we were still wandering at 4000 m in the national parks with vicunas and co. Anzota caves It was a nice stroll along the coast where Chinchorros used to live. At the end of the caves what grabbed the eyes was a path. As our envy of exploring was not satisfied, we decided to follow it and see where it goes. It was a very long path but the wild coast let us walk for at an hour. We enjoyed the view, the salty air, the breeze, and the feeling of being light! At 4000 m our body swelled, our steps were slow and heavy, our breath too short, the air left a dry mouth, our nose burnt. Nothing glamorous! At some point we noticed a rock with a white layers as if it would have been painted. Impossible. Thanks to my camera lens, I could spot sea lions cohabiting with vultures. They were very loud, they either played in water or sun bathed. There was a mother looking after its young. At the harbour We wanted to take a boat tour to see penguins but we heard that the boat costs almost €100. It can up to 8 people, the cost would be divided into the numbers of participants. We did not risk and we preferred to stay at the harbour. It was enough to see for free! We were amused with sea lions swimming there or getting up and down the rock and. Such massive animals can drag themselves into a rock. Impressive! Then the pelicans! We´ve never seen pelicans so close. They were quiet and flew back and forth. Nothing could distract them from what they were doing. It was lovely to see how animals were not afraid of humans. We left those guys behind, and took a boat tour to visit the bay. The guide was an entertainer and we learned a lot about the XV. What we already noticed, the guide confirmed it, this part of Chile is a real mixed with Peru and Bolivia for historic reasons.
Visiting Arica Staying 4 days in Arica helped us to calm down. We were almost bored. It was not as exciting as a previous week. We still liked to discover the city centre, eat reasonably healthy food, and delicious pastries. We found a place to buy alpacas´clothing. People were very friendly and welcoming. We saw the train station to go La Paz, it was tempting but we did not have time. Near the station, there was a building, in renovation, constructed by the Eiffel company. We passed by the St. Mark´s Cathedrale also commissioned by the government to the Eiffel company. We spent a couple of afternoons at the beach where I could swim for a short while. The Pacific ocean is not made for non native, a way cold. PISAGUA Pisagua old and Pisagua new. We stayed at the new Pisagua, the old town was 5 km away. We started our day with a good breakfast, after a short night, and a "bad" news. We planned to go to La Lugana Roja - The red lagoon but we were told that the weather conditions were bad so the lagoon was closed. If mother nature decided so, we would organise our day differently. That morning the weather was rather cloudy and grey. It was difficult to shot good pictures. We finally left our hotel after observing the sea lions playing in the sea. We missed the road to go the cemetery, not indicated at all. We had a good view from the hill, it was enough! Chinchorros, British people, and prisoners are burried there. The Chinchorros, well maybe not any more, but they were the first inhabitants, then came the British, and the prisoners. MEETING WITH A CURIOUS CRAB and NOISY GULLS CALETA DE CAMARONES Our second stop of the day. After 7 days spent between 3500 and 5000 m, we were glad to be back at the sea level. However, it was breathable, the sun was burning and the wind blowing sand. It was not really welcoming. Houses were protected from sand storm with wooden boards. No restaurants were open. We got used to that! We spent some time enjoying the waves breaking on the shores. We pictured the Chinchorros that lived there 10 000 years ago. CALETA DE VICTOR The next cove, only 12 km away from the main road, we decided to seize the opportunity to have a car and be flexible to exploit the region. The drive was quite easy and once at the beach, we parked the car though we spotted soldiers having a meeting few meters away. We just ignored them but the chef caught us. He introduced himself as the ejercito de Chile and strictly forbade us to stay. It was under the Chilean military control until Thursday, no strangers were allowed to be here. He emphasized the fact that they were huge board signs indicating what he just said. Disappointed and not in position to discuss we had to retreat without seeing that cove. It would not have been so different from Camarones cove but still driving all the way for peanuts. Indeed we drove carefully and we saw this billboard, up the hill and parallel to the road. Impossible to see when you drive! Welcome to Chile! CAMARONES On our way back to Arica. Stunning geoglyphs! No search needed, they were just there on the left side of the road. The scenery was nothing we had not seen before. (LOL) Back to Arica after spending 8 days on an extraordinary road trip driving more than 1200 kms!
Leaving Huara Monday morning. Breakfast, the same as ever. Energy to start a long day. Eggs- bread - tea Monday morning seemed to be a Sunday. People chatting while sitting in a shady place, life has a different rhythm there. No rush hours, no overfilled public transport, or even traffic jam. The first visit of the day Humberstone. Humberstone and Santa Laura Saltpeter First we stopped at the first petrol station after 6 days on the road. We were definitely back to a modern world. We enjoyed an empanada and mote with huesillo. It is a non alcoholic beverage, refreshing for summer. It is made with dried peaches cooked in sugar, cinnamon and water, mixed with wheat. We also saw ATMs, shops and bus stations. As mentioned in one of the post, the region overflowed with salar (salt flat). Dozen of refineries were located between Huara and Pozo Almonte. It used to extract potassium nitrate shipped all over the world. The site looked alike a camp where 200 people from Chile, Peru, and Bolivia worked hard, very hard... maybe as slaves. Humberstones as dozen of camps were operated by Chilean and investment made by British people. Machines were brought from England as well. The business lasted from 1872 to 1963. The production started in 1872 to decline in 1929 and collapsed in 1963. Sites were closed down since then. One of the main reason was that Germans created a synthetic substitute to the potassium nitrate when British blockaded exportation to Germany during WW1. In 1872 Humberstone was located in Peru and other salpetre towns belonged to Bolivia. In 1878 The Bolivian companies raised the taxes on salpetre companies that were operated by Chilean and British. It was when Chile declared war on Peru in 1879 called the Pacific war or the Salpetre war. Soon after Bolivia that backed up Peru was at war with Chile. The war lasted 3 years and finally Chile annexed the Northern part. Negotiations went on until 1929 to design the current Peruvian and Chilean border. Bolivia lost accesses to the coast, but Chile agreed to give Bolivia a free transit from La Paz to Arica. Life seemed to be easy for British people that came here to supervise and run the business: they had got luxury houses, entertainments such as tennis court and such, access to fine clothes and groceries. As far as workers were concerned they did not have the same life. They worked long shifts under a blistering sun and were low paid. In 1907, there was a social movement as they were paid with a local money not used outside the camp. They claimed better working and living conditions. At that time the Chilean government to cease the movement sent troops and opened fire on workers, pupils, and wives known as The Santa Maria School massacre. Until today we speculate on how many people died that day. Figures go from 190 to 3000. Now what remained is only two ghosts towns. Arid and hostile environment What we forget when starting our visit is that most of sightseeing are closed on Mondays. Luckily Humberstones was open but the geoglyhs were not. We were impressed by the dry ground - what an hostile environment to live and work. Before starting our tour, we were giving advice on where to go. Pica should be a place to go. There is a thermal bath and the town is famous for its tropical fruits. We drove through the barren national Park - The Pampa del Tamagurral to reach first Matilla. A tiny village that closes everything at 2.30 p.m. When buying local cakes filled with mango marmalade, we were offered the church key to visit the church. Nice but inside was a bit tacky. No far away from there, Pica - an oasis in the middle of the desert. The road was easy to drive. We stopped to take pictures of this cracked earth. No many cars passed by maybe 5. One of them was a 4x4 pick up. When we got back on the road, few kilometers away, cars stopped. A traffic jam in a middle of nowhere. We got out of the car to check the situation. The pick up turned over and crashed on the other side of the road. Carabineros and people were there. The driver corpse recovered with a cloth. The end! We were under shocked but we continue our trip to Pica. Once there we parked the car and went to eat a huge ice cream, and drink a juice too. We skipped the thermal bath - too commercial! We laughed at the fountain, place in the main square, and left the place. We spent 5 minutes at the dinosaur attractions park that is famous to have authentic dinosaurs´footstep. Was it worth it to drive the whole way to Pica? This is how we ended in Pisagua. PISAGUA As already commented, in that part of the world there are no hotels or petrol stations. Distances are long to go from A to B. Internet connection is also very bad. Where to go and where to sleep? I was lucky to see that a village on the coast has accommodation. We did not want to stay either in Pica, Pozo Almonte nor in Huara. We went up north to Pisagua. We drove long, straight, and non ending roads. It was tiring as hell and boring too! Only dust devils distracted us. There were few trucks to overtake. It ended when we had to go down the road until Pisagua. The landscape became interesting and changed again. After witnessing the accident, we were not secured on narrow road. Along the way down, there was roadworks. We asked one of the workers whether accommodation were free. He mentioned that only one hotel might have a room as the others were full. We tempted our luck as we did not have anywhere to sleep. Fortuitous we had the last room of the town that was a bit pricey. We had to ask for a discount as we did not have any cash left to eat. One thing ATM were scarce too.! We should have gone back to Pozo Almonte to withdraw money! The way up and 90 kms! Pisagua is well known in Chile for two main reasons: - it was one of the harbour where salpetre were shipped to other Chilean cities. - its prisons and torture camps that were active during the Pinochet dictature. The village consists of a couple of streets and deteriorated houses. A new Pisagua is being to be built with cement material. We were back at the sea level, we could breath, the air was moisturized and our body did not ache any more. We felt such a relief. We felt good. It was time to eat but the only place open served salchi-papas. (saugages with chips!) Everything was closed. Well during this trip we got used to eat nothing but healthy or delicious food. In the evening, at 10 o´clock exhausted by such a day we went to sleep but at the same time a close neighbour began to sing karaoke songs during 4 hours! Non stop! We could not rest much! TATA INTI In Aymara Inti means sun and tata god: the sun god. After buying a couple of hats made of alpaca and filling the petrol tank we headed off to the cactus forest. Indications were very poor, locals were not a help really. We just followed a road without knowing where we were going. THE CACTUS FOREST From far away appeared some straight forms, unrecognizable. A deja vu - searching for nothing. We did not give up and our efforts were just rewarded. A rhea just crossed the road. We had to stop and observer that bird that looks alike an ostrich, a bit smaller and thinner. Closer to the foothills we distinguished many sizes and forms of cacti. It lifted up our spirit. We parked the car and started exploring the forest. At that altitude, we needed to take everything slowly as our body still was not used to the sickness altitude, even after a week. Giant cacti - as you think that they grow 1 cm per year. We felt tiny against those giants with long spikes. We had a view on a salar. The region overflows with salars big or small, We were delighted to be back into a silent environment but we had to support an oppressive heat. A place that is dry and empty of life. Time does not exist only the weather rules over the desert. Feeling woozy we had to watch our steps since spikes were everywhere. Baby cacti tried to find their ways and laid on the ground. PULCHULDIZA That day we had quite long distance to drive. We were between no man land and villages. Another sightseeing was the Geyser of Pulchuldiza. Now we were used to drive off road. Still the landscape was stunning! Once we reached the place, we had to pay an entry fee and we could enjoy a ride in the geysers area. The fumes and the hot water that they gushed were quite insignificant as they had small holes a part from one. That one did not jet at all.However the babbling and the earth colour were impressive. We were fascinated by the dark ocher colour patched with deep green ones and traced with white ones. In some places the great variety of colours changed from shades of blue, pink and reddish colours. Without knowing it we had two thermal baths: one with a turquoise colour but freezing water and the other one a dark blue colour but warm water. Önder dove in the later one. I could not. The air was so icy and the wind blew up. I just watched and envied at the same time Önder having a swim! DARK OCHER COLOUR Absorbed by this natural phenomenon we lost our sight into this myriad of colours that could express an artist brush strokes. Inspiring! When we left the place, the guard at the entrance asked us if he could come with us. He looked at us with such an envy, it was hurting to see such pity eyes. He could not let us go. Surely, he imagined us with our easy urban life with access to everything. We pictured his life in a such an environment where life is motionless and timeless but quiet. Both sides admire each other, thinking that it is impossible to swap life.
MOLINOS We heard that Molinos was a beautiful place to visit. We experienced that so well in China, so we did not trust such words. As it is only a 10 km detour, we just went there. Molinos is a village where the Chilean government convinced investors to pave the streets, to restore or build new houses, and build a square in front of the church. Nothing but an empty space...It still has some vestiges that evoked a prosperous past. A 4000 m pass Still driving up, although we knew that in the evening we would reach the sea level, we were amazed by the beauty of the colours. Ochers, pink and green were mixed to turn this landscape into a painting. CHUSMIZA THERMAL BATH Chusmiza an unforgettable place that combines thermal baths and swimming pool. Not easy to find, the road was steep and narrow, villagers not very helpful and friendly. We made our way and enjoy one hour in this mountainous scenery. 3600 m, 40 degrees water temperature, 30 minutes time allowed to stay in the bath! TO HUERA After a refreshing and relaxing bath, we continue our trip to Huerta. Mandatory stops to see the geoglyphs we´ve never seen! Colours went from ocher to black, grey and lava. THE ATACAMA GIANT A giant in the middle of the desert representing a deity, age 1000 a.c. We count about 5000 geoglyphs in the region. It was created to predict the weather, when aligned with the moon. At Huara after a day full of adventures we ate a Chilean meal: meat with rice, salad or chips, and a soup.
It was easy to find a room at 4 p.m because the restaurant, where we ate, offers accommodation too at reasonable prices with hot showers. We did not count on that any more, as hot showers here are more lukewarm than hot. Once again we were lucky as a couple just got married and celebrated their wedding over the weekend! We were back to the civilisation! PUTRE About 150 km away from Arica, at a 3600 m altitude where 2000 souls live. Putre means in Aymara babbling waters. A bit surprising as Putre is in the middle of the Andes. There is a rough and tough climate all year long. November is the last month where tourists can visit the parks before the Bolivian winter begins (rain and snow during three months). After a traditional breakfast (eggs and bread) and a stop a the local petrol station, it was time to leave and start an adventurous day! The local petrol station consists of going to a shop and asking for petrol. A guy comes to pour petrol into a can of petrol - fill it up - 20 L. That would be our last fill up before reaching Pozo de Almente. As Putre does not reach a minimum inhabitants, petrol companies won´t open stations. We still feel the sickness altitude and once it catches it never leaves you! What a company! Nose is burning, head is aching, breath is short, and dizziness makes one sick! What caught my eyes, were colourful boards. Next to our hostel, there was a kindergarten. I had a closer look and employees were on strike! From Lauca to Isluga park Day 1 was already beyond any expectations. We enjoyed it so much! We could not even think about the forthcoming days! We took the same road as the day before and entered the Lauca national. Parinacota and its acolytes were still watch over the Altiplano the Chungara lagoons and the local animals. What changed was the weather, It was cloudy and colours were not so bright. It did really matter for our pictures. Vicunas and lamas disappeared and the rivers were thawing. ON THE WAY TO GUALLATIRI Unlike the day, there was no trucks as the road leads to the Surire Salar. The road was rockier and Parinacota moves away to give place the Guallatiri volcano. Guallatiri village: 2 souls and a church. An arch to welcome you! Guallatiri volcano: 6000 m, still active! See the fumes on the picture. Massive and impressive! Lamas: at the volcano foothills grazed lamas, untroubled in this calm environment. They fascinated us and could observe them for hours. They did not mind us too. TO SURIRE After spending some time with the brown, black, white lamas, we drove further south and discovered different landscapes until Surire. Appears in front of us a big white stain - we could deduct from the immensity and the bright white colours that we were almost there at the Surire Salar. It was a magical moment, so contrasting with the colours and landscape we have seen so far. We made a short stop and took a couple of pictures to keep on with our trip. Stunning! SURIRE We were advised to go anticlockwise as the view is nicer to finally bath in the thermal bath (Polloquere) that is at the far end of the Salar. Just follow the road 253 and this is after Chicalcaya. The master plan! So far we did not have any problems as roads and tows were perfectly indicated. Follow the sign! We pass the carabineros stop and let us go to walk to the salar. We asked for the authorisation. We did not run but saved our energy because of the altitude that made everything slowly. Every movement is painful. The body could not resist the 4200 m. The dazzling panorama eased the pain: vicunas and flamingos perfected this picture. The shy flamingos felt our presence and started to move away while vicunas and Andean ducks did not move. Well we counted a sole vicuna. It was peculiar. At first sight we thought that it was sick and stayed away from the herd. On our way back we noticed that he mourned one of this friend. Sadness in this picturesque site. THE THERMAL BATH Villages are deserted, homes abandoned, and mother nature took its right over it. Chilcaya is one of this ghost village. Sad but true. After Chilcaya we should follow the road A -95 or A 253 but we arrived at a crossroad, no sign at all. Which road to take? We went straight and continued driving for miles until the road was not so narrow, bumpy, and rocky that was impossible to drive even with a pick up! and even make a u-turn was a feat in itself! Out of the blue 4 cars were driving towards us! Luckily there was place to stop and let us pass. However we stopped and men got out their cars. No bothered of asking whether we could speak Spanish. One of them asked straight away if there were carabineros. Well Yes and he insisted and it was a firm answer. Yes! Then followed a second question: Where do we want to go ? Bolivia or Chile... hmmm Chile! The same guy said that we should follow them. Trust them? What´s else could we do? They did not know about the thermal bath. They told us that they came from Bolivia. 20 minutes later we said goodbye and thank them for their help. While they watched us leave, they gathered to decide what to do. Surprisingly a woman in traditional clothes and with long braided hair got out too. Until today we still don´t know what kind of business they were doing. For sure they did not want to meet with the Chilian carabineros. We went back on the right road. Great but still no thermal bath in sight! On the road back we saw two 10 meters polls that represent the Chilean and Bolivian border. We were actually in Bolivia. On the ground two signs that shows KM 0 and a bit further the A-253 road. Confusing, indeed! We dropped that idea to bath in the thermal bath for two reasons: we still had 100 kms to go, we did not want to waste more petrol. Later that day we were told that this is a dangerous region as there are snipers and spikes in the road that burst cars´ tyre´s. Indeed, I did recall to have read some similar stories on a traveller blog. We got lucky nothing occurred neither to us nor to the car. TO CHOLCANE We pulled over so many times, we wanted to make the most out of it . Each stops made us feel the roughness and the beauty of the Altiplano. 100 km but driving up and down in sandy, rocky and narrow paths. The wind was strong, the air thin, and the sceneries astonishing. It kept on changing. Hills after hills it was something different. We have never experienced that before. So many changes in such a short distance. We stopped a couple of locals to ask our way they were walking to the next village or to watch their herd. We met very nice people, with craggy face sand light brown eyes. They could not leave us as if they were asking us to take them. Some of them demanded biscuits as they were scarce there. We pulled over so many times, we wanted to make the most out of it . Each stops made us feel the roughness and the beauty of the Altiplano. Lamas made us stop too, we were trespassing their territories. They remained peaceful. We were amused at the situation and we had to force our way to drive through them. SURICAYO Dry mountains vs lush nature. COLCHANE CARIQUIMA We finally finished the tour, we exited the park with a tear in the eyes. We left behind this dusty, barren, drought but moisture and green valley. The harsh sunlight that makes you blind, the heavy silent peaceful and the whistling wind crazy. The solitude was enjoyable, we swam in an immensity desert that blew our mind. It was just the beginning. We travelled trough times where everything moves slowly and nature the commander. Coming back to paved roads, to the civilisation, that we almost forgot, was even harder than we thought. Everything was too noisy, too loud and just too much. We followed the road to Colchane where an extremely long queue waited. Trucks after trucks- It was like a lego game. We drove to the left side and tried to find out what was going on. Actually it was the boarder to Bolivia! AGAIN! We did not wait longer and drove back to Cariquima. Internet signal was back to save us! Once in Cariquima we check in, in a huge pension hold by a very friendly but business oriented people! It was the Patron Saint celebration of the town. We wanted to join the festival but it was to start later at night.We were promised to have a hot shower. We were looking forward to having a shower, but it was impossible that day due to the overpopulation. The owner tried to do its best to make it happen but nothing could be done that evening. We had diner at the pension and we were served lamas! What a tragedy! We have been admired them the whole time and now they were in a plate. As we were starving, we ate it but we liked too. Later that evening despite the tiredness we went to the festival, it was around 10 o´clock. People actually were going back home, drunk. The festival started later that night - at 2 or 3 o´clock. We were quite unlucky as the first morning in Arica the school nearby celebrated its year end, at 7 - the show started. The second night, in Putre, we could not sleep much because someone snored like hell, the walls were shaking, the ghosts scared off, and we awoke the whole night. The third night they played the music so loudly that vicuna and lamas were frightened. On our way back to the pension, we took an interesting picture - I am taller than the houses there. People are Aymaras and revendicated their nationality. WHAT AN INCREDIBLE DAY! THE END FOR TODAY
Exploring the Lauca national park - 4000 + Putre 3600 m, once the sun sets, it gets cold, really cold. Temperatures drop around 0 at night. Better to get thick blankets and warm clothes. It reminded us when we were in Himalayas. In Putre we felt the same sensation. When the cold pierces to your bones, every movement is painful. In the morning it is hard to get started, fighting the cold to get a bit warm. Everything you touch, is frozen, the water is icy. Breathing is also difficult; your lungs are numb. Outside the Andean nature is silent, await the sun to rise to wake up. For breakfast we got our paila – a Chilean breakfast – two fried eggs with local bread and a tea or coffee. Early morning, we set off... so exited to finally meet with Parinacota. We asked whether we could find anything to eat there: of course, no problem, you can find things in Parinacota. Great so we just took some biscuits and chocolate, nothing else. Lauca We could already feel it - the puna or the altitude sickness- lack of oxygen, dizziness. Once it gets you, it won´t leave you. Deal with it or take some medicine that make you sleepy. It made it very challenging to take pictures. It affects your body in all aspect and makes you feel weak too. We chose the first one: be tough and enjoy the Altiplano! Altiplano or high plains comes from the Aimara language. Always heard of it, but never seen it. Today was the day. We drove the whole day in the park and discovered incredible landscapes where the light is so bright and powerful. What our eyes could see was a wide colour contrasts: dark blue for the sky and the lake, white, pink, yellow, grey for the mountains, and green too for the vegetation. It literally turns our head. If you look closer, you can see some brown stains and sometimes white, black or a mix of all this colours: there are vicunas and lamas. Lamas are not shy but vicunas as soon as they hear a noise, they run away. We saw also some Andean ducks, gulls and diverse birds that walk very fast. At that altitude, there is no noise, no signal, no radio, no INTERNET :))) Motionless and soundless! Chungara lake and Parinacota volcano Back to Santiago, when on a Saturday morning on my way to my class I saw a huge ad for Parinacota and its volcano. After asking my google friend, I messaged Önder and showed him some pictures of that place. This is how this trip started. The majestic Parinacota, a 6380m volcano, whom last eruption was 300 years ago. It is at the Chilean and Bolivian border. Because of its conic shape it reminded us of Mount Fuji. It will be our landmark for the day. The Chungara and the Cotacotani lakes are the highest in the world. They were formed after the Parinacota volcano collapsed into the Lauca river about 18 000 years ago. A curious lama We made a break to take a picture and out of the blue a lama with pink bobbles came to me. Afraid of what it could do, I did let it observe what was inside the car. Apparently it was a very peaceful lama but I did not want to risk anything. It just wanted to have a chat... It was so cute but what the picture does not show: the smell or the stench! I noticed its fur, wearing that you can not only survive but also live there! It looked thick and warm. Clouds dancing in the sky Vicunas and Lamas in the way We witnessed a couple of scenes where vicunas chased each other during a long time, running from one side to another of the road, jumping in the lake. Was it to play, to challenge each other, to gain control? As non vicunas experts, we will never know. It was a magic moment. Conceived to live in such an environment we envied their endurance. We also observed lamas crossing the roads too. First they gather on the road and formed a huge queue. The leader waits and scrutinizes for quite a bit the environment. Then he decides to cross over while the rest of the herd stays quiet until the leader gives the signal to pass. For them time does not exist, it goes of their survival. About 100 lamas cross the road, at a slow but steady pace. What a wonderful spectacle! Cotacotani lake formed 18000 years ago Average surface: 4,5 m Average temp: 1 degree In Aimara: Quto lake Parinacota It was our first and last chance to get some food. Please Parinacota save our day! A part from vicunas, lamas, and birds we did not see much of food! A tiny village on the Parinacota foothills where silence is your best friend. Only two souls that live permanently in the village. Either people left to live in a bigger cities and a more livable environment. As Parinacotat has a rough, dry, icy cold climate and is empty. Or people come a couple of days to look after their animals and go back to the city. They are two survivors that resisted the time and the temptation to escape. A couple that has got a souvenir shop and a huge 4x4 that contrasts with their little house. We hoped that the lady would offer meals but no at all only clothing stuff. We were condemned to starve! As we could not bargain so just what we bought a couple of things at an expensive price but needed for Önder that did not have any warm clothes!? The two people were as the climate is unfriendly, aggressive and angry. However we met a week later someone that had a totally different experience! When exploring the village, we discover a 3 km path that goes to another lake. Although we suffered from altitude sickness (weakness and headache), we walked slowly to the lake. The green and blue colour hypnotised our brain, our breath is too short to make us speak, we are dizzy not to have eat or because of the scenery? Reaching the lake lamas were there for us, grazing the Andean herbs and bathing in a frozen water. As if they were dropped off there for us, tourists for one day. We did not bother them at all, they checked us and kept on grazing. On our way back to Parinacota, we saw a dust devil, a whirlwind, that usually does not harm. For us it is something we only watched on TV! Hidden under rocks, plenty of animals escaped when they heard our footsteps. Here they are: the famous vizcachas, rodent animals, that are similar to rabbits. Their tails are longer and curly. It was time to get back, around 4 - 5 o´clock. We were hungry, tired, and had terrible headache too! But we captured the most of our experience that day. Chile -HolidaysThe options to visit CHile within 4 weeks were to go to the South, the North or the centre. We chose not to go all over places but we focused on one part. We go North and discover deserts and arid landscapes. It took a month to plan this trip. The challenge first was to choose how we are going to travel: - renting a car - on foot and public transport - renting a van We weighted the pos and cons. It took a while. Finally we made up our mind and decided to rent a car. Why renting a car? to be more independent! At first we selected the van option but after reading reviews, the vans from wicked van are not adapted as they are utility vans, good enough to drive in the city but not on sandy and bumpy roads. We requested quotes from other vans rental companies, but they were fully booked. What about public transport? In that part of the world, there is no public transport to go to the national parks. So dropped that idea too. Following that decision, what types of cars? Again we had to do some research. We´ve been told that a pick up would be more appropriate. Renting a pick up, 2x4, was so pricey - for 7 days - it came to €600!!! A German guy we met on the way commented that in Germany we could have rented a porsche. True though. This is the Chilean market price. Travelling in Chile is not cheap. Visiting North of Chile with a pick up! Let´s the adventure begin in Arica. Santiago ARICA To travel within Chile, we mostly flew as low cost airlines offered cheap flights with restricted terms. Airlines make you pay for everything! But still it remains cheaper than taking the bus. It reduces the travel time to. Flying to Arica took about 2 hours, 1600km. The landscape from Santiago to Arica changed extremely: flying over the Andes to land in the desert, 20 km away from Perú. We were so exiting to explore that part of the world, unknown for us. Renting the car was easy, we got lots of precious information: where to go and how to travel, we really appreciated the valued help. It was time to hit the road and learn how to drive in Chile. 5 years without driving at all and now in Chile where driving habits are a way different from what we used to, was a challenge. Arica and food We stayed in Chile although it was tempting to go to Perú. At that time, my visa was about to be processed therefore I could not go out of the country without an authorisation. It was not worth to get it, it would have been so difficult. Moreover, there is enough to see in Chile! We arrived in the evening to get some food and we were so surprised as food was so cheap and portions so big. That would be the only thing to be economical in that area. Lauca National Park -almost there ARICA-AZAPA VALLEY On our way to Putre we first went to the Azapa Valley. Azapa means in Aymara - soft land, is located in Arica and Parinacota region, in the 15th. It is an oasis, where the Rio San Jose runs through. Olive trees, tropical fruits are famous in that region. When we drove through the oasis, at some point, we could smell the intensive scent of the olives. As if we were bathing in an olive oil pool. We did not see much of the tropical fruits as they are protected a sandy coloured net. We stopped at San Miguel de Azapa. A small village with a church, a cemetery, the archeological museum and 100 houses max. On the hills, we could see geoglyphs and visit prehispanic villages. We visited the famous museum of San Miguel where we learned about the first indigenous people: the Chinchorros that lived there in 5000 BC. They were fishermen or hunters depending where they lived. The Chinchorros created differet techniques to mummify dead bodies 3000 years before the Egyptians. They emptied the body and used different colours black and later red to mummify. The museums presents all the civilasations that inhabited the region since the Chinchorros such as Tiwanaku, Incas, (Ancient Andean civilization) to the Spaniards. Searching for geoglyphs! Geoglyphs are drawing on the ground usually formed with stones. In San Miguel they are on hills that´s why they should be easy to find even with a map. It took us ages to find only one! No internet, no signal, no signboard we drove in deserted places. It was disappointing! We had still 3 weeks to discover more geoglyphs! Visiting the cemetery It was an interesting visit as tombs were quite fancy with colours and decorations. They are placed in the same directions! San Miguel - the village A tiny place with a market and two booths, a convenience store, and a church. We were quite lucky as the church was still opened. At 1 p.m, it closes. We tried to find a place to drink something, nothing there! As we looked for geoglyphs, we saw former board that named the route: the Slave route. Now renamed the desert route! Our first meeting with a lama! Poconchile - Molino and PUTRE We visited the LLuta valley too and had a break in Molinos to get something to eat. Restaurants at 4 p.m. were still open but did not have any food left. We tried our luck and got something! Rice with meat and salad. We drove through desert and oasis. A contrast landscape: dark blue sky, sandy and white mountains, and dark green vegetation. We reached 3,800 m altitude. We could feel it already: dry mouth and tongue, lack of oxygen... We were almost in Putre. What stroke us were the numbers of cars and trucks that laid on the side road as old carcasses or temples put up to commemorate the loves ones killed on that spot. Finally in Putre It took a day to reach Putre. We enjoyed the trip!
FINALLY THERE! |
ArchivesCategories
All
|