San Pedro One day to rest in San Pedro. We took part in a walking tour and met the French riders! The evening was fun! We found a restaurant a bit outside the main streets. We enjoyed Bolivian music. The next generation mixes folklore and pop, dressed up with altered dresses, singers wear a flashy make-up. The whole thing is just tacky and tasteless! We had good food and cheap, what is not common in San Pedro, drank pisco sours, and had a good laugh! Monday morning our transfer was planned at 5.30! How to conclude a 6 days horseback riding? It was more than a horseback ride. We heart so much about San Pedro and its desert before going!
Experienced it on a horse, what so intense and so magic! There is no word to describe what we saw. Breathtaking, marvellous, incredible, superb, and extraterrestrial! We were taken with the beauty of the place! As to the horseback ride, we found it exciting! It is not as easy as it seems: it requires lots of techniques especially in such environment, patience, and loving! We were thrilled by the experience! We surely repeat the experience! To do this, we booked all inclusive tour. The organisers rolled out the red carpet for us. Nothing to say about it. However, our friends that "only" booked a three days tour, were not given the same treatment. They had to ask about things while we had a 90 minutes minutes the day before the start of the tour. They did not even bring them back to their hotel, the last day. After 3 days in the desert, their phone batteries died, neither the family helped them to recharge their phone and nor tried to use their phone at least to find the hostel. They had to go to the office centre first with heavy bags! Life!
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A start in a rush! Warned by Joaquin, we might be woken up by tourists that invade the place and misbehaved too. Some tourists damaged or even vandalised the bus. Until we were there, nothing occurred. We left the camp quite in a rush and early as Joaquin was in a hurry to go back home! The day went by quickly but was intensive. In a short time, we galloped 5 times up and down the dunes. The competition became fiercer and fiercer. Horses asked for more but still reached their limits too, we hold the challenge! The very last one, Bartholina refused to be overtaken. She sprang and spread her back legs out twice to the horse leader! What a strong personality! As for me, I had back and neck pain! We rode in the Salt mountains, passed the 3 Marias (famous dunes), canyons, and the Quebrada de Honra de Kari, and finished with the Moon Valley. This what happened with Bartholina! QUEBRADA AND MOON VALLEY THE LAST DESCENT BEFORE SAN PEDRO THE END It was a strange feeling to bring back the horses and to know that the next day we would walk again!
GOOD MORNING WORLD! We had a short night! At around 6 despite the cold, we woke up and went outside, excited with the wonderful spectacle of the sunrise over the volcanoes and the valley. We had an early walk and could not bath as it was still cold. We observed the flamingos that were near the bank and left further away after a while. We visited the three lagoons, at the third one we watched howls. Unlike flamingos, they were not that shy. We tiptoed with our walking boots and took a selfie with a howl! It made our day! THE ANDEAN FLAMINGOS THE ANDEAN HOWLS The same as the day before, we packed our stuff, fed the horses, and got ready to leave. Joaquin mentioned that we would sleep in a bus! The hint of day! What we rode one way, we had to ride it back. We were not ready to take that road again but that was the only way. What we experienced lift up our spirits. We had lunch in a sandy area where trees were scarce. Joaquin who knew the region like the back of his hand, found a good place to rest. We even had a nap. That day the horse leader was nervous, wanted to gallop, and did not listen to Joaquin´s orders. We knew Joaquin and his methods with the reins, to threat the horse with a reins, he went the last of the queue, he hold his reins tight when we had a break. Joaquin really wanted to his horse, who was the leader! It was quite hard but the horse after lunch resigned! His horse put him in a bad mood! We managed the situation very well and our horses followed the morning ride without any problems! At lunchtime
The Salt Mountains Finally, it happened we arrived at the Salt mountains! What a change! The sandy paths were replaced by rocky ones, we were in the mountain. Joaquin to make it more excited as we galloped a couple of time! What a thrill! Competition between the horses went to a higher level! The horses wanted to be the first and were eager to overtake Joaquin´s horse. The last galop Bartholina competed with Joaquin´s horse. The road was straight, Bartholina was fast and good. When I saw the bus, I had to adjust race and take the curve! A technique in itself! What a joy! Everybody was so animated and pleased! The ride through the salt mountains was remarkable! We have never seen blocks of salt that looked alike snow! The region was explored to extract the salt and people worked there in the salt mine. That explains why a bus in the parched region. Mine Exploration At the camp, the same ceremony took place as the day before. That afternoon, despite the tiredness we went up the salt mountains! From the bus The evening was a feast: bbq, espumante, couscous, and a desert. We really were lucky. Conversation that evening went on for a longer time as the very next day, we had to say goodbye. I was more into gazing at the stars rather than chatting that evening. We did both, everybody appreciated the evening! What an extraordinary feeling. We had the sky for ourselves!
Search for the owl! A long tiresome ride After a resting night and a good breakfast, we headed to the horses’ place. Full of joy meeting our horses. After three days in the North we would ride the South part of San Pedro with two new riders. Lola and Antoine, from France. The way was nothing to compare with what we experienced the three first day. We rode outside San Pedro on long and boring roads, crossing villages, meeting wild dogs and a nice one. Sometimes it is the price to pay to just reach an incredible sightseeing. We stopped for lunch under trees that kept us away from the heat. We went back to the same old road!. We met a couple of tourists who sat nice and comfortable in their car, some less cosy on their bikes! The Cejar Lagoon Enjoying the float! Beginning of the afternoon our efforts were rewarded. At 2 or 3 p.m we arrived at the Laguna Cejar. The most expensive tourist place ever in Chile: €20! We booked an all-inclusive package, so nothing to fear only the guard at the entry. She made herself important and asked for our registration, our passport and so on. Our horses particularly mine could stay two minutes in places, I had to hold her tight. Everything went well, we entered the place and left the horses where they are allowed to. Joaquin remained, as usual, mysterious and just mentioned that he was waiting for the organisers ‘car to pass by while we went swimming. Later that afternoon we would have access to shower, that was such a good feeling after a horseback riding and salty bath. The area was made for tourists: showers, toilets, and huts were made available for visitors. We were marveled by the deep dark blue water mixed with the crystal-clear shallow water on a shiny white background. From far away we could see some pink patches that looked alike flamingos. Some birds and bugs flew around, nature was alive! We were in heaven. We walked to the only lagoon out of three to be opened to tourists. The place at that time was empty, only early comers took a bath. HEAVEN! The water contains 5 times more salt that the Dead sea. We could swim but float obviously without difficulty. We spent some time there, when we decided to walk around and to take pictures of the two other lagoons. We knew that the organisers would come at 5 p.m. We did not want to miss anything. We had a cold shower, got dress and explored the lagoons. We met again Joaquin, two hours later, that made an announcement: we would camp here! Where here???? At the Cejar lagoo???? Yes! What a joy like kids. It was such a privilege! Staying here to watch the sunset and the sunrise! We had plenty of time, then! The camp site The water contains 5 times more salt that the Dead sea. We could swim but float obviously without difficulty. We spent some time there, when we decided to walk around and to take pictures of the two other lagoons. We knew that the organisers would come at 5 p.m. We did not want to miss anything. We had a cold shower, got dress and explored the lagoons. We met again Joaquin, two hours later, that made an announcement: we would camp here! Where here???? At the Cejar lagoo???? Yes! What a joy like kids. It was such a privilege! Staying here to watch the sunset and the sunrise! We had plenty of time, then! As usual we prepare the camp, although it was very windy, we helped where we could and had a great meal again! Conversations went on for a while, we gazed at the stars. However the light pollution prevented us from seeing a clear sky. But still we appreciated it. MAGIC MOMENTS SUNSET STARS The night was interspersed with a short stars gazing in the middle of the night. Sky was clearer as before and the shiny stars even brighter and stood out in the darkness. The earth rotated so did the stars too. We could not recognize much but we felt that it was a privilege to have the sky for ourselves. THE THIRD DAY The strong wind finally was tired and gave up! It was for our own good. Dawn was very cold but everybody bustled to his own activity: preparing breakfast for Joaquin, feeding the horses for the organisers, and tidying the tent. After a copious breakfast, we got back on our horse. Our body was acking, I had bruises on my thights, and our back was killing us. We endured the short day. Joaquin shared a good news as we should be back by 2 or at the latest 3 o´clock. We were dreaming of a comfortable bed, a hot shower, and a good night sleep. THE PLATEAU The first hour seemed to be a deja vu but we still appreciated the view. While we were saying goodbye to the Northern part of San Pedro, we rode towards civilization. When we went up a path, reaching the plateau, we had an incredible panorama overlooking the valley we rode the day before. The mountains, the canyons, the oasis set up into place as a puzzle. We could detailed each part of the mountains, the different roads, the mix between of sand and rocks, and the steepness of the slope. We left behind the arid and almost lifeless desert to discover another breathtaking scenery. We stopped for lunch there! A BREATHTAKING PANORAMA THE DUNES After lunch, the guide, who was in hurry to come back home, said that we would go down the dunes. I started laughing and took it as a joke. Joaquin was dead serious, it was not the type of person of making jokes. So we applied the techniques we learned the day before and let´s go. It was totally new, riding in sand. It was as if our horse turned into a camel: it was smooth and . Both horses and us were concentrate on the descent. Adaptation to this new ground for both went quickly and Bartholina started to run even its had sand up its knees. At first we thought it would be impossible to take pictures, but we had almost three days behind us and we coped well with the situation. That day we galloped at least three times and it was really fun! It was a great sensation to be there, and no one except horses could where we went! We were like cow boys!
THE DEATH VALLEY We were back on a solid ground, rocky and dusty too. The heat burned our skin and life was nonexistent. The funny thing is that in Spanish this valley is called: Mars valley. Our guide told us that at some point see was there! Fossils were found there. We were back to a more visited place: cars, bikes invaded the place. Horseback riding was different, other feeling. At San Pedro We arrived in San Pedro as if we were the Spaniards back in 16th century.
People admired and /envied too. We finally finished the day with a short gallop as a car blocked the road for a while. We fed the horse and left them rest until Day 4. We enjoyed a hot shower, washed clothes that needed to, and get some sleep. In the evening, we had some food and and early night to charge our battery! That evening we already missed the camp, the fire at the campsite, the stars, and the quietness of the desert! SUN RISE - BREAK CAMP We got up early not because we wanted but because the cold invade the tent from all sides. The warmth from the ground turned into an icy place during the night. Our body ached and could find peace again. We recalled a similar experience in Naruto. Waiting at 5 o´clock in the morning the first sunlight to warm us up. It was exactly at 4000 m. We knew it would take a couple of hours. Be patient and get up. Inertia kills you while movements keep your body alive. Woods at the fireplace was already burning, it helped a bit but moving was the key of waking up chilled bodies. We tried to appreciate in that state the sun set. Meanwhile we explored the area walking on a hard ground, that was made during the Licantai last eruption. We had breakfast, the horse were ready. And once the sun was above the volcanoes, everybody was in a good mood to start the day. However we were not prepared for such a long horseback riding... 9 hours. Licantai Licantai watched us leaving at a soft pace. The horses were excited and we just stretched our aching body to sit on their horseback. We walked back the way we came and appreciate the coolness of the morning. We were more confident on leading our horse. A kind of complicity were growing between the horses and us. We were getting there. LUNCH TIME After a three hours ride, we set up the table and had a delicious lunch. French style and healthy food. Joaquin had already gone to a shady place to have a rest. We did relax too and we walked around to admire pretroplyphs. Traces of the past that left us doubtful on what traces we leave on earth! The condor - Before going to the sightseeing site, we had our first gallop to the excitement not only of the horses but ourselves. The first round lasted too long...We asked for some technique recommendations and tried the best as we could to apply them. It was physically hard to maintain the rhythm, not to lose control. I did at some points as my feet went of the stirrups. I did not want to stop our tremendous race so I gripped the saddle and whatever I could not to fall down. My horse knew what it was doing and followed the rest! At some point the three of us were aligned and the horses galloped in harmony! It was a great feeling! Once we stopped, our horses were out of breath. So were we! We share big smiles, we were relieved that it was over. When Joaquin said we passed the test successfully. It was the best! Actually we were asking for more. Soon after we had our second gallop. Joaquin told us that we were like professionals. What a compliment! We felt as one with the horse, we mastered the technique part and the gallop went smoothly. Then we calmed down and followed a trail where the landscape was pinkish, rockier, and mountainous. When out of the blue we faced this big rock, that in one side, was similar to any others. But once on the other side, it had a condor shape. It was actually the gate to the other side of the mountain. Past generations left some stories on the rock. It depicted nomads that passed by that places with lamas. Two circles meant that there was food and water and one circle only food or water. It is amazing how humans find ways to communicate. No mobiles not internet and people knew about important information. Unfortunately I could not take picture of this as Bartholina (horse) could not stop moving and I had to hold her tight. After lunch It is when things started being serious. We went down a steep and rocky mountain. We learned the technique: lift feet up, and put the upper body back, let the let the reins so that the horses can see the way. Ultimately let the horses do the rest with a minimum of control. That day we went up and down: valley and plateau. After the challenging slope, we had a more comfortable way. Unfortunately we could not enjoy the ride when we went through the first valley. It should have been magic but it was a disaster. We called this valley: "the garbage valley". People came and still come there to unload their houses. It really affected us. How can people trash such a unique place! At some point this nightmare ended! Thank goodness! Just there! It laid just there: simple in equilibrium, in its element but misplaced at the time. As if someone put the stone there and hold it with invisible strings. QUEBRADA DEL DIABLO Climbing the plateau was a bit difficult for Önder as Gladys was crossed at Bartholina and decided to slow down its steps to stay far behind. Bartholina overtook Gladys! After climbing to the plateau, we forgot our miserable experience and admire the reddish mountains that designed curved shapes. We started being used to go down as real experts. Once in the valley, we could not believe our eyes. What a stunning gorge! A real maze! We felt so small and we did not have much manoeuvre due to the narrow paths. It required a good dexterity and a good leadership not to let the horse going where it wanted to go and crash our head against the rock. There was an extreme narrow path where we had to get off the horses and leave the horse spring. We were not really trained to face such situation but we tried our best. Unfortunately my horse did not want to come and retraced its steps. Joaquin got quite mad because we did not manage it well, had to intervene. We let him to do his job and brought Bartholina to me! A moment later we had to spring again but it was let´s say a baby step. My horse took a maximum of speed and sprang without no fear. Unlike Bartholina, Gladys feared everything. It was another story. Önder had to motivate Gladys to spring. It needed time and patience. The heat was burning and only few seconds of shade kept us going!
Cuchaorache Oasis We ended in another valley but not an arid one but in the Cuchoare oasis where we followed the San Pedro river. A salty river that were not drinkable for the horses. But as they were very thirsty they tried a couple of time but at the end gave up. Trees were spike and so green. It was such as a contrast to what we crossed over so far that day. It was refreshing. We also saw a shepherd and his herd. No time to speak we had to keep riding. We were already tired. We did not have any information about the arrival time. Temperatures were still high, everybody was suffering. Vilema and San Pedro rivers We continued off the beaten track where no one could come except adventure hikers. We left the oasis to arrive in another valley where the two rivers (San Pedro and Vilema) met. Outstanding colours patched the ground:crystal clear water contrasted with rosa rocks and salty flakes. Like an impressionist painting! Then the final touch was the apparition of a guanaco on the plateau wondering who we were! Exhaustion left apart, we were full of joy as it was a new scenery, new feeling. We still did not know whether the camp was far or not. When then Joaquin, took a marked road and we finally saw it! We overcame a 9 hour horseback riding! We understood afterward why Joaquin did not mention anything about the schedule, not to discourage the riders! At the river We went down to the riverbank and even take advantage of the river to have a quick wash. The water was a bit salty but well it was refreshing. We needed it to relax our muscles. At the camp Then we went back to the camp to a have an amazing diner and some drinks. We had a good chat with the organisers that stayed over night with us. We really enjoyed for the first time gazing at the stars and counting for shooting stars. We even saw the milky way and the Magellan gas that look like two clouds. Fire reflecting on a bush!
HORSEBACK RIDING To explore San Pedro, I wanted to do something different. It should be a surprise for Önder, It was a bit risky. I tried it. It was so tempting. I knew deep down, it would be an amazing experience: one week horseback riding in the desert! We would learn to ride properly too. We were lacking experiences even from now and then we rode on holiday. I book a 7 days horseback riding to explore the north and the south part of this area. Önder knew it only a day before starting the tour. His had mixed feelings, I could not wait! Meeting with our horses We met first with the organisers, a French-Chilean couple, the guide, and of course our horses. Önder was riding Gladys - a stubborn horse that did not let anyone before her. She was 10 years old. I had Bartholina: a young horse (7 years old) that wanted to run all the time. The guide Joachim, he knew his job, he did it almost perfectly. He learned his job when he joined the army, there was a bit of a soldier when giving instruction. It was not very talkative during the day but at night was a chatter box. He could not name the valley or places we were. He said most of the time there is no name! We had to ask for few advice how to manage the horse and hold reins. We get started for week through Atacama desert! THE FIRST FEW HOURS We spent the first few hours going out of San Pedro, and knowing our horses. We had to keep in line and be near to each other what we were not successful. Joaquim reminded us all the time and even summoned us to stay together. We passed by Pukara de Quitor without visiting the place. Well we had quite a long day, a 5 hours ride today. At noon sharp, Joaquim made a break - Lunch he shouted. We were not hungry as we had a heavy breakfast. We could not say anything. We followed the order! 15 km - the first day Riding for 5 hours was quite a bit, nothing compared to what we would experience the very day. Landscapes here were lunar, colours vary from pink, to white and grey. Flora was none except in the oasis. Fauna escaped from any danger, just left footprints. Nothing was visible, transparent. During our week tour, the Licancabour and Licantai volcanoes will be our landmarks. RIO VILAMA After a day riding, we relaxed in the vilama river. It was a salty and refreshing water. We bathed for almost 90 minutes. Then we promised to help at the camp so we set up the tent. Meanwhile our horses were fed and Joaquin prepared diner. That day we went through the Time valley, Pukara de Piquar to finish at the Vilama riverbank. Time stops here - we followed the sun rhythm. We had diner, chatted for a while, and then Joaquin went to bed. We stayed up to gaze at the stars. We were so tired and because of the cold we went to sleep. The ground was still hot at night, it kept the heat from the day. It helped while sleeping. Temperatures can drop very low. What a sensation! Being in the desert horse riding and camping! We were ready for the next day!
ARICA - CALAMA - SAN PEDRO It was time to say goodbye to that part of Chile and get ready for new adventures. It was very impressive to fly over the valleys From far away we could still see the Parinacota volcano, overlooking the region. SAN PEDRO A very touristy village, there are nothing more than hostels, hotels and tourist agencies. People at the market not friendly at all and business oriented. We wanted to escape from the crowd, we went for a walk in the desert. But first we stopped at the French bakery. Wow such a big pastries (croissants, pains au chocolat), they were so delicious and buttery even better than the one you can buy in France PUKARA DE QUITOR It was a short walk but efficient, few kilometers. We wanted to visit but we forgot that we were in San Pedro. Unlike Lauca and Isluga parks tourists must pay entry fees. As it set on our schedule the very next day, we did bother going.
It was a relaxing day before the forthcoming week. |
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