SUN RISE - BREAK CAMP We got up early not because we wanted but because the cold invade the tent from all sides. The warmth from the ground turned into an icy place during the night. Our body ached and could find peace again. We recalled a similar experience in Naruto. Waiting at 5 o´clock in the morning the first sunlight to warm us up. It was exactly at 4000 m. We knew it would take a couple of hours. Be patient and get up. Inertia kills you while movements keep your body alive. Woods at the fireplace was already burning, it helped a bit but moving was the key of waking up chilled bodies. We tried to appreciate in that state the sun set. Meanwhile we explored the area walking on a hard ground, that was made during the Licantai last eruption. We had breakfast, the horse were ready. And once the sun was above the volcanoes, everybody was in a good mood to start the day. However we were not prepared for such a long horseback riding... 9 hours. Licantai Licantai watched us leaving at a soft pace. The horses were excited and we just stretched our aching body to sit on their horseback. We walked back the way we came and appreciate the coolness of the morning. We were more confident on leading our horse. A kind of complicity were growing between the horses and us. We were getting there. LUNCH TIME After a three hours ride, we set up the table and had a delicious lunch. French style and healthy food. Joaquin had already gone to a shady place to have a rest. We did relax too and we walked around to admire pretroplyphs. Traces of the past that left us doubtful on what traces we leave on earth! The condor - Before going to the sightseeing site, we had our first gallop to the excitement not only of the horses but ourselves. The first round lasted too long...We asked for some technique recommendations and tried the best as we could to apply them. It was physically hard to maintain the rhythm, not to lose control. I did at some points as my feet went of the stirrups. I did not want to stop our tremendous race so I gripped the saddle and whatever I could not to fall down. My horse knew what it was doing and followed the rest! At some point the three of us were aligned and the horses galloped in harmony! It was a great feeling! Once we stopped, our horses were out of breath. So were we! We share big smiles, we were relieved that it was over. When Joaquin said we passed the test successfully. It was the best! Actually we were asking for more. Soon after we had our second gallop. Joaquin told us that we were like professionals. What a compliment! We felt as one with the horse, we mastered the technique part and the gallop went smoothly. Then we calmed down and followed a trail where the landscape was pinkish, rockier, and mountainous. When out of the blue we faced this big rock, that in one side, was similar to any others. But once on the other side, it had a condor shape. It was actually the gate to the other side of the mountain. Past generations left some stories on the rock. It depicted nomads that passed by that places with lamas. Two circles meant that there was food and water and one circle only food or water. It is amazing how humans find ways to communicate. No mobiles not internet and people knew about important information. Unfortunately I could not take picture of this as Bartholina (horse) could not stop moving and I had to hold her tight. After lunch It is when things started being serious. We went down a steep and rocky mountain. We learned the technique: lift feet up, and put the upper body back, let the let the reins so that the horses can see the way. Ultimately let the horses do the rest with a minimum of control. That day we went up and down: valley and plateau. After the challenging slope, we had a more comfortable way. Unfortunately we could not enjoy the ride when we went through the first valley. It should have been magic but it was a disaster. We called this valley: "the garbage valley". People came and still come there to unload their houses. It really affected us. How can people trash such a unique place! At some point this nightmare ended! Thank goodness! Just there! It laid just there: simple in equilibrium, in its element but misplaced at the time. As if someone put the stone there and hold it with invisible strings. QUEBRADA DEL DIABLO Climbing the plateau was a bit difficult for Önder as Gladys was crossed at Bartholina and decided to slow down its steps to stay far behind. Bartholina overtook Gladys! After climbing to the plateau, we forgot our miserable experience and admire the reddish mountains that designed curved shapes. We started being used to go down as real experts. Once in the valley, we could not believe our eyes. What a stunning gorge! A real maze! We felt so small and we did not have much manoeuvre due to the narrow paths. It required a good dexterity and a good leadership not to let the horse going where it wanted to go and crash our head against the rock. There was an extreme narrow path where we had to get off the horses and leave the horse spring. We were not really trained to face such situation but we tried our best. Unfortunately my horse did not want to come and retraced its steps. Joaquin got quite mad because we did not manage it well, had to intervene. We let him to do his job and brought Bartholina to me! A moment later we had to spring again but it was let´s say a baby step. My horse took a maximum of speed and sprang without no fear. Unlike Bartholina, Gladys feared everything. It was another story. Önder had to motivate Gladys to spring. It needed time and patience. The heat was burning and only few seconds of shade kept us going!
Cuchaorache Oasis We ended in another valley but not an arid one but in the Cuchoare oasis where we followed the San Pedro river. A salty river that were not drinkable for the horses. But as they were very thirsty they tried a couple of time but at the end gave up. Trees were spike and so green. It was such as a contrast to what we crossed over so far that day. It was refreshing. We also saw a shepherd and his herd. No time to speak we had to keep riding. We were already tired. We did not have any information about the arrival time. Temperatures were still high, everybody was suffering. Vilema and San Pedro rivers We continued off the beaten track where no one could come except adventure hikers. We left the oasis to arrive in another valley where the two rivers (San Pedro and Vilema) met. Outstanding colours patched the ground:crystal clear water contrasted with rosa rocks and salty flakes. Like an impressionist painting! Then the final touch was the apparition of a guanaco on the plateau wondering who we were! Exhaustion left apart, we were full of joy as it was a new scenery, new feeling. We still did not know whether the camp was far or not. When then Joaquin, took a marked road and we finally saw it! We overcame a 9 hour horseback riding! We understood afterward why Joaquin did not mention anything about the schedule, not to discourage the riders! At the river We went down to the riverbank and even take advantage of the river to have a quick wash. The water was a bit salty but well it was refreshing. We needed it to relax our muscles. At the camp Then we went back to the camp to a have an amazing diner and some drinks. We had a good chat with the organisers that stayed over night with us. We really enjoyed for the first time gazing at the stars and counting for shooting stars. We even saw the milky way and the Magellan gas that look like two clouds. Fire reflecting on a bush!
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